My three weeks in Brazil were quite enjoyable!
The flight to São Paulo went well, although the pocketknife that cleared Chicago was confiscated in Tampa; I paid around $20 to mail it to myself. Brazilian immigration was very simple, with not much more than a quick Bem vindo ao Brasil! from a friendly young female official. I collected my bags and changed some money, which I don't recommend anyone to do as the conversion fee was ridiculous; use an ATM instead. I walked out the doors into the Brazilian public, saw a bus, some people eating at a stand in the airport, then made my way to drop my bags for the Brazilian domestic portion. Went through security, which was the same as what is done in the US, although people are more gregarious. Wandered down to my gate, got on the free airport WiFi to make a Skype call to my friend, and looked and listed to things around me. My months of Brazilian Portuguese from Duolingo proved quite inadequate when ordering food from Casa do Pão de Queijo. Fortunately a Brazilian-born man who was working as an HVAC in the US Northeast came to my aid and helped me complete my order. Departing São Paulo, I was impressed by its size but also its structure of seemingly orbital cities and townships. The flight to Recife was uneventful, but the window seat allowed a good look at Brazil as it flowed away far beneath me.
Recife's airport had been fairly recently renovated, and it showed: clean, bright, comfortable. While picking up my bags, a young man approached me with surveys questions for travelers to Pernambuco State. I answered him with my broken Portuguese then headed out through the doors. Eduardo, his wife Sandra, and their two children Thiago and Nicole, were waiting for me. I gave them the OK hand gesture, which some days later I was told is very rude in Brazil. Far better is to give the thumbs-up, which people do seemingly everywhere in Brazil for almost everything. It's a custom one quickly picks up.
They took me for a quick spin around the older coastal area of Recife, along a noxious canal where plenty of homeless people were resting, chatting, and hanging their clothes. Plenty of squeegee men. I had read that Recife is a magnet for people from the sertão, the semi-arid interior; however, it is not a city prosperous enough to accommodate everyone who flocks there. Then we went to a large fenced-in shopping mall to eat. I was surprised to find that paying for food weighed by the kilogram is common in Brazil.
Well fed, we headed up to João Pessoa. Traffic flowed well, but as we were leaving Recife, it was a bit unnerving at how frequently people would walk into fast-moving traffic, or dart out between concrete median dividers. The motorcycles wove dangerously among the cars, trucks, and jaywalkers, as they did in Bali. I was struck by how many Fiats I saw, both cars and trucks, since they were very rare in Japan and only recently reappearing in the US. Along a rural stretch of the interstate, we saw the burnt-out hulk of a semi that Eduardo had passed earlier on his way to fetch me. At that time, it had recently crashed, was on fire, and had people crawling all over it, taking what they could from the trailer. He said that it is legal to take perishable goods from a wreck like that, but not other things. We reached João Pessoa, the capital of Paraíba, without a problem.
After dropping my stuff in my room, they took me out to do some shopping at a home goods store, quite similar to Home Depot in the US. Then we went to Carrefour, a huge French grocery chain which I knew from my time in Japan. I enjoyed going through the aisles, seeing the various items for sale. Carrefour sells many things other than groceries. Thiago and Nicole wandered the aisles with me as I gawked at the things for sale. One thing that really struck me was how many Portuguese import items were available, especially olive oils and fish. Lusophone ties surely play a role, but I had never seen so many Portuguese products. The fresh produce section was especially interesting because of all the fruits, vegetables, and tubers that I had never seen before. Their Carrefour also had a nice cafe near the entrance, where we had some soup, pastries, and fruit juices. I became a pineapple-mint juice fan on the spot.
Over the next three weeks, Eduardo took me to his workplace, where I enjoyed visiting some of the offices and staff. We did plenty of shopping and had visits to doctors and hospitals, which I found quite interesting. I attended one Sunday Mass in Portuguese and plenty of family events where I was treated extremely well. In and around João Pessoa, we went to various beaches for pegar o jacaré (bodysurfing), sought Sepultura CDs in some music stores, ate at food trucks, bought daily necessities, withdrew money, bought alcohol and souvenirs, strolled about the city's central lake, visited the picturesque old city, and ate at various eateries. I visited his children's school, where they had to register for the resumption of classes. We also visited the Oscar Niemeyer's UFO-like Estação Ciência, Cultura e Artes and the nearby Cabo Branco lighthouse at Ponta do Seixas. In addition, there were plenty of trips for ice cream at Friburg and two or three trips to cash-only Peixe do Amor in Ponta das Seixas for delicious fish dishes. I got to see the Brazilian police stopping night traffic for DUI checks; Eduardo's wife was asked to blow Ito the breathalyzer. Sandra is an exceptional cook, so I got to sample plenty of Brazilian food popular in the northeast. I particularly liked pamonha, but I was surprised that my friend's family didn't drink more coffee. My attempts to pick up a São Braz T-shirt all failed.
Eduardo's family also took me on a trip up to Natal, where we stayed one night in a pension run by a friendly Italian. We visited one of Eduardo's friends, a jovial man, Alejandro, who lives in a delightfully Modernist home with walls and large sections of glass to let light in. We also spent two nights in Pipa, a beach town that is particularly popular with Argentines, so we heard lots of Spanish.
After returning from the trip, another friend of Eduardo's, Marcos, brought his family to stay as well for a few days. We drove to Cabedelo to take the ferry across the estuary and drive around some before returning to visit the old fort's ruins and see the start of a major road that goes to the Amazon.
On my last day, we got up early for the drive to Recife. It took some time to get my tickets printed and receive my boarding pass. It was a bit sad to leave Eduardo and his family, as they had treated me incredibly well. I waved them good-bye then passed through security to sit a while before boarding my flight to Rio, which mainly followed the coast and allowed me to see Brazil get greener and hillier the further south we flew. I spent a few hours in Rio's airport and used its WiFi, but the views from the airport were a bit dull. Enough time has passed that I cannot recall the franchise where I got my maté drink, but it was so tasty that I ended up having two while trying to burn up my remaining reais. Next time I will try to spend a bit of time in Rio instead of just flying through.
My trip to Brazil's Northeast was fantastic! In many ways, it was even better than being a trip in that I got to experience Brazilians being Brazilian, being with their families and living their lives. More traveling would have been nice, but going out and about with my friend's family was the best.